Saturday, July 3, 2010

Dakar 1

In my mind I'd half decided I wanted to come and live in Dakar on a sabbatical...everything I've experienced so far confirms this aspiration.  

Miraculously, everything at the airport at 5am yesterday morning went to plan: Laura and I met up for the first time in 6 months..and our luggage also arrived. Unbelievably joyous and good to see her after her semester in Cairo and her travels in Palestine, Israel, Jordan and Syria and Lebanon. She has regaled me with many stories and showed me hundreds of photos of truly wondrous places.

We found the delightful Hotel Farid by taxi after quick negotiations and slept all morning. Then began the fun: the street scene outside the hotel comprised the usual city sights and noises, but included the sound of a goat, close by, and the first glimpse of the beautiful Senegalese women in their colorful pagnes, carrying their loads atop their heads with such ease and grace; also the passing of a lute and tambour duo, who were seemingly performing as they walked along for the pleasure of it .

In two days we have been to the biggest open air market in Dakar, seen Ghana, Africa's only hope, get knocked out, Argentina get knocked out,  (currently we are watching to see how Spain fares,) eaten our first Thioff and Thieboudienne, Senegal's delicious fish dishes, been to the best outdoor music locale and viewed much art and craft.

Dining here is a DELIGHT! The food is absolutely delicious, served beautifully by Senegalese who live by Teranga: a warm hospitality and pride in their city and nation. The first day we dined at the famed Hotel Farid's restaurant, primarily Lebanese food but also the local, national dish Thieboudienne. In the evening Thioff, seafood, at the famed Just4u. Today for lunch we dined outside under the enormous baobab tree at L'Institut Francais: Gado gado and prawns. 

The weather is in the high 80's but Dakar's westerly, coastal location invites cooling breezes all day. No mozzies as yet but we have tended to take a siesta late afternoon, early evening.

We have done what we girls do best in all the crowded markets that are bursting with local goods, bright cotton clothing, arts and crafts.

The main reason I chose Senegal and Mali was to hear the music I have become obsessed with these last few years. Just4u is a lovely venue we are returning to tonight. In open air under huge straw umbrellas surrounded by hibiscus trees, the venue attracts the best performers in Senegal. The crowd will hopefully get up and demonstrate the legendary mbalax style of dance that is so exciting, initiated by Youssou N'Dour, whose club is also up the road.

Tomorrow, we are collected by Rama of ACI Baobab at 12 to be taken to our family in the Mermoz district. Love to everyone. Bonne soiree! 

    

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